Sneak Peek: Bar Cart takes over Khyber Pass



Near the end of the year, we find ourselves awash in restaurant news, what with all the openings and closings and changes afoot. Leases may or may not be renewed as the calendar flips forward, but sometimes heartbreak for a vanishing restaurant can lead to excitement for the next brave soul who takes the lead. So it is on Grand Avenue. 

The Sherzad family are responsible for introducing many a midwesterner to Afghani cuisine and its hospitality within the walls of the Khyber Pass Cafe. After many years of living the restaurant life, spending more time working than any other thing, Emel and Masooda Sherzad decided it was time to pass it on. After a few other people walked through the space and deals were dangled, it ended up landing within the family. 

Ralena Young, who is partnered in life with the Sherzad’s daughter Mashal, is now leading the space in a new direction with best friend and colleague Brian Riess. The two have been part of the Eyes Wide Hospitality restaurant group that brought about Volstead’s in Eagan, Whiskey Inferno in Savage, and Tequila Butcher in Chanhappening, among other properties. Ralena left the group having created their bar program while training many young suburban bartenders in the art of the craft cocktail. But now it’s time to create something for themselves at Bar+Cart. 

With no small amount of sweat equity, Ralena and Brian have turned the Afghani restaurant into the bar they most want to hang out in. Much like the Sherzads did some thirty years ago when they took over the building, the two have painted and scraped and built something in the space that speaks to them. 

If you have a memory of Khyber Pass, it was probably tinged with bright warm tones. Bar+Cart has gone to the other end of the spectrum. “We looked down at the green floor and thought, you either have to fight it or let it win,” Ralena told me in the space last night. “I think it was the best decision we made!” Letting the floor win, the resulting scheme includes a black painted ceiling and trim, deep emerald walls, and a floral wallpaper that brings a bit of jaunty light, but not too much light. 

The entry way is split between two lounge seating areas. On one side you’ll find a mod fireplace and some chairs. On the other, it’s mid-century modern sofas and tables. Move into the main space, and you’ll find cafe tables that were hand built by Brian and Ralena. There will be about 55 seats in Bar+Cart.

The main focus, of course, is the bar. “We didn’t know what the back bar was going to look like, but I’ve been saving palette wood for a long time. We thought about painting it, but it just feels right like this.” The two completely retiled the bar front and built a shiny new bar top. Cut out of the back of the bar, is the pass to the kitchen, where Ralena will be. 

Though she’s been a central figure in the cocktail scene for more than a few years, she started out in kitchens. The menu is more than just bar snacks, but less than cheffy ambition. “I’m not trying to win a James Beard award or anything,” Ralena said as she set down a loaded hummus plate. “But I know flavor. I’ve been playing with flavor almost exclusively behind the bar for the last few years, and I know that has changed the way I think about food. This menu is made up of things that we want to eat. Is it American? Is it Fusion? I don’t know what to call it. What would you call it?”

The menu is sectioned off into four categories. In the Light column you’ll find a baby kale Caesar, scallop crudo (above) with chilies, and beef carpaccio touched with sochu. In the Spreads section, there will be whipped feta with blistered tomatoes, hot honey burrata with pickled cherries, and a roasted garlic bulb with baguette for the dipping. Listed under Satisfying, choices include corn ribs with Adobo butter, a grilled cheese with poached pears and red pepper flakes, or the B+C smash burger with American cheese and red chili bacon. Finally, Homey will bring you things like mac + cheese with three good cheeses, a beef short rib with parsnip puree or baked sausages with stewed apples, blackberries, rosemary and such. I think, since she asked, that the menu recalls the moment when bars started cooking food from scratch instead of just relying on popcorn machines and bag-in-a-box-food … when drinks became more serious and potent, and packs of friends stayed at the bar past happy hour, for dinner. It’s small on purpose, it has owner-operators who start with liquid hospitality, but want to make sure everyone gets nourished too. In the best, most promising way I’ve seen in a long time: this is a gastropub.

Brian loves that he can stand behind the bar and watch the door. He can see when anyone comes in, if a table needs water—he can get the feel for the whole room. Make no mistake about the bar program here, do not let the humble furnishings fool you, there will be some 50 drinks on this menu: classics for $11, vintage cocktails at $10, and signature drinks for $12, plus a nice round of non-alcoholic and low-proof beverages.

“We plan to open at 3pm and just roll until 10 or 11pm,” Brian mentioned. “If someone comes in at say, five minutes to 11, they can still get the whole menu. That’s how we would want it as shift workers getting off of work, so we want to be able to give that assurance to others who might want to come in at the end of their night.” Bar Cart will be dinner only at the start, but plan to open on Sundays just for brunch service.

While we were finishing up, Emel came in with one of his paintings that he made during COVID. His work will adorn the walls and, as partners in the business, they’ll possibly hold some pop-ups or add some things to the menu as it goes. Because you can never really leave the business. 

If everything falls into place, look for Bar+Cart Restaurant and Lounge to open during the week before Christmas.

1571 Grand Avenue at Snelling, St. Paul





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