Now Open: Nova in Hudson, WI

Brett Splinter has a bar. In Wisconsin.

For some in the hospitality industry, that’s good enough. I don’t have to say another thing other than: where. 

Splinter has revived the old Nova Wine Bar across the river in Hudson, relaunched simply as Nova. 

If Splinter’s name only sounds vaguely familiar to you, it might be as the man behind the Blackstone griddle I wrote about making The Cult Burger of Summer last year. Maybe you listened to his Private Sector podcast? Or maybe it’s familiar as the Director of Hospitality at Lift Bridge? Or as one of the main dudes at Barrel Theory in Lowertown? Or for his foundational time at Surly Brewing? 

Anyway, if you go to Nova on Wednesday through Sunday, chances are you’ll get to know him.

The new Nova, just off of Coulee Road as it begins to wind up into the bluffs, was gutted and reformed to be your basic Wisconsin bar. There’s a great little patio that gazes down to the river, a few vid machines, an open garage door to let the air in, and a bar with some tables along the wall. Like the old wine bar, this bar is part of the attached Casanova Liquor store, which has a very long and cool history along with historic caves. The owners of Casanova are obviously partners with Splinter on the bar, which bodes well for that back bar.

There’s a whiskey situation happening behind the bar, and if you want to upgrade your Old Fashioned with the good Weller, you can. And to be clear, even though this is a Wisco bar, the standard Old Fashioned does not require muddling. “I had a guy come in here and want the whole cherry and orange muddle with Blanton’s,” Splinter told me. “Of course I made it for him, in fact I made three. It’s his money.” All the barrel staves that front the bar are from the single barrel whiskey picks they’ve made at the store.

If you’d think that, given his beer lineage, there would be 42 craft taps installed, you’d be wrong. There are two. “One has Miller High Life, and the other has Miller High Life.” Not that there isn’t plenty of craft beer on site. “I don’t need a ton of taps, they’re hard to maintain, you gotta clean them all the time,” he noted, “You don’t get the freshest beer from a tap, you get it from a can. I can get an IPA made yesterday in my cooler, and whenever you crack it open, it’s just as fresh as day one.” With his connections, you should expect that the cans he has in his cooler will be better than your average inventory. There are some interesting collaborations already happening that are waiting to get announced. 

As of now, there’s no food. But there will be. Splinter and partners are working on some ideas to bring a bit of quality smoked meats over the bridge (#offsetsmokerloveinwisconsin), and he’s promised me the Blackstone will make an appearance and those legendary smash burgers will have a home. 

Meanwhile, why not try an Old Fashioned that he makes with simple syrup created from raspberries (from his mom) and Five Watt’s dark chocolate bitters. It’s off-menu, but you might ask if you go. There’s also a tequila Old Fashioned that hits the right notes between sweet and smoky with both reposado and mezcal in the mix with Tattersall’s grapefruit crema. The Blackberry G&T is also a winner, largely because they are making the blackberry tea tonic and sour in-house and you can clearly taste the difference. 

If you’re wondering what the Disco Nap is, Splinter is quick to point out he stole it from Brunson’s Pub who stole it from someone else. It’s basically cold brew coffee, but instead of using water to make the brew he uses tequila. He adds some amaro and creme de cacao to bring it home. If you order a Hudson Handshake, you get the Disco Nap as a shot with a tapper of Miller High Life. FTW. 

Bet on this spot to see a lot of MN traffic, apparently the housing market is being tipped by buyers from across the river. According to some locals who came in and sat next to me, the biggest and coolest Halloween party of the year happens in the liquor store’s historic caves. Apparently everyone goes full Great Gatsby for that one. If you have other plans, maybe set your sights on the Bourbon Cave Fest on November 12th, you really might need a Disco Nap after that one.

If you do find yourself leaving Nova and in need of food, before their own kitchen launches, it’s vital to know that LOLO American Kitchen is within walking distance. Literally down the road, hang a left, find some delicious Korean fried chicken wings, a Fat Joe burger, or fish tacos to save you.