Pedigree
Chef Evan Vranian is a tad bit more than a pizza slinger by trade. He’s the son of Steve Vranian (chef at Gianni’s Steakhouse) and Jule Vranian (co-owner of Sweet Jules Gifts) and has cooked in high-profile kitchens such as Spoon and Stable and Sooki and Mimi. He was ready to launch a sub sandwich pop-up called Proof at Surly Brewing before the pandemic stole his thunder.
Terms
What do you call a cold-cut sandwich? It depends on where you’re from. It can be a hoagie, a sub, a grinder. Some out east call it a wedge, a hero, a zeppelin, a blimpie, or a torpedo. A po’boy takes you in a different direction, perhaps, more southern and seafood laden. In Boston, a small cult loves a spuckie. Mario’s menu calls them heroes.
The Italian
Of the five heroes on the menu, one stands out as the standard. Repping that East Coast style, the Italian Combo offers up three Italian cured meats—mortadella, soppressata, and Calabrese salami—and the only appropriate cheese: provolone. Topping that, a healthy dose of kicked-up olive-pepper relish and pickled giardiniera, which give it that saucy krunch (with a k because that’s harder-hitting than a c). It adds the fresh, cold veg combo of onion, iceberg, and tomato before giving the whole mess a loving smack of Duke’s mayo, chili flakes, mustard, and Sicilian oregano.
Side Move
No, you don’t need chips or fries with this hero. If anything, you might need the cheesy garlic bread donuts. Little fried balls of dough with mozzarella, garlic, and ricotta hiding inside are the savory donuts you need.
Bread Is Life
The sesame bread is baked in-house, and sandwich lovers know: Bread is a factor. This roll has a crunch to the outside but a soft enough inside that it sops up all the good mess and contains it well. This is not going to fall apart in your hands. It doesn’t battle your bite like a crusty baguette can, and it’s tasty on its own, unlike some of the mass-produced Styrofoam-flavored breads you find in other shops.
Oh, There’s Pizza?
Mario’s also makes a great pan pizza that some might compare to Detroit style. While it’s baked in square pans to create the shape that aligns for those who crave the cheesy-crisp edges, it’s not traditional Detroit, so they’re keeping it loose. The Supreme version is loaded with the goods, but the Artichoke pie has a lighter, fresh take.
Plus: Free parking in the back! Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
232 Cleveland Ave. N., St. Paul, 651-207-5252
Stephanie March
Food and Dining editor Stephanie March writes and edits Mpls.St.Paul Magazine’s Eat + Drink section. She can also be heard Saturdays on her myTalk107.1 radio show, Weekly Dish, where she talks about the Twin Cities food scene.
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October 5, 2022
6:22 AM