Deconstructed: The Manny’s Meat Cart

Steak houses have a certain bravado that seems to accompany the consumption of massive cuts of red meat. But swagger falls flat unless you have the chops to back it up. There’s one local steak place that has mastered the art of confidence while never ignoring that the prime directive is service, service, service. No one slaps meat like Manny’s (825 Marquette Ave., Mpls., 612-339-9900).

No Bull

Manny’s Steakhouse opened in the Hyatt in 1988. The Parasole-owned restaurant is named after investor Manny Villafaña, the med-tech trailblazer and founder of St. Jude. In 2008, the restaurant moved to new digs in the Foshay Tower, where it lives today. (No, it’s not moving to the West End; stop circulating that rumor.)

The Cart

You can’t miss the rolling carts as they make their way from table to table displaying cellophaned cuts of raw meat to help you choose your dinner. The servers run through each cut to describe what kind of meat it is, what the flavor profile is, and how much it will cost for the night. Each server has a bit of a different spiel, making it a personal part of their service, but nearly everyone gets a good slap on the meat during the chat.

The Chop

Many steak houses sell this popular bone-in rib eye cut, which is often termed the “tomahawk chop.” But one of the longtime servers at Manny’s who was Native American objected to the moniker. So here, it’s known as the Bludgeon of Beef.

Hash

Wonder why hash browns are such a steak house staple? Who cares! The skillet-size portion that lands on your table is peerless in town: deadly crisp on the outer edges, with a silky-soft interior potato life. Order them line-cook style, with onions, bacon, and hot sauce, to do it right.

Heidi

While Manny’s used to be a bastion of tan-coated male servers, Heidi Gillespie-Houser was the fourth woman hired to the service team, and she’s still on the floor, now with a more diverse team than ever. One of the best at the meat cart, Heidi was named the CEO of Explaining Meats by Barstool Sports, which posted a video of her spiel. It racked up more than 10 million views.

Buckets of Gin

Once you’ve ordered your giant cut of meat, you’ll likely sit back and relax with a giant bucket of booze, AKA a martini. The pour is to the top; everything in excess is part of the Manny’s mystique.